Azelaic acid
Skin/Hair · Dicarboxylic acid
Tier A
What this is
Remarkably versatile and tolerable. Safe in pregnancy distinguishes it from most other active skincare. Works well layered with retinoids. Some hair-loss protocols include topical azelaic acid for its mild DHT-modulating activity but evidence for hair is weak.
Mechanism
Naturally occurring C9 dicarboxylic acid from wheat/rye; inhibits tyrosinase (reduces melanin); antimicrobial against C. acnes; keratinolytic; anti-inflammatory; mild 5α-reductase inhibition
Dose & route
10-20% topical 1-2x/day
Citations
- https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/27542540/
- https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/25062434/
- https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC8023016/
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This is an independent synthesis of published research by a non-clinician. Scores are opinions supported by citations, not prescriptions. See the full disclaimer and methodology for how this score was produced and what it does and doesn't mean.